Mitsubishi Air Conditioner Cleaning And Maintenance Guide, How To Clean The Shell Filter, Evaporator And Condenser

Household hanging machine deep cleaning: from "surface work" to "inner health"

Many families are still in the stage of cleaning the air conditioner by just wiping the outer shell. Little do they know that the seemingly clean interior of the air conditioner may have already become a breeding ground for bacteria. Especially before high-frequency use in summer, or when the seasons change, it is extremely important to carry out a deep cleaning. Taking an ordinary two-bedroom household as an example, the cabinets in the living room and the hook-ups in the bedroom often accumulate a large amount of dust due to long-term operation. If deep cleaning is not carried out regularly, the "sour smell" blown out when the air conditioner is turned on may cause skin allergies and respiratory discomfort in family members, which is a typical precursor of "air conditioning disease". Real deep cleaning is not just to make the air conditioner look brand new, but also to remove mold, Legionella and other pathogenic bacteria present inside, thereby restoring an indoor air environment with healthy characteristics.

Professional tool kit: If you want to do your job well, you must first sharpen your tools

If you want to carry out a standard deep cleaning work, the choice of tools directly determines the actual effect and safety of cleaning. In addition to the conventional Phillips screwdrivers, brushes and rags, professional housekeepers will also be equipped with the following artifacts:

A water-receiving cover specially designed for hanging units and cabinet units is called an air-conditioning cleaning cover. It can prevent dirty water from splashing during the cleaning process, thereby preventing walls and floors from being stained.

2. High-pressure watering can and steam cleaning machine : With the help of water mist formed by high pressure or steam generated by high temperature, the evaporator and wind wheel are washed, and stubborn dirt is removed through physical means. Compared with ordinary watering cans, it is more efficient and covers more evenly.

3. A tool specially used to organize evaporator fins is called a professional fin comb. It can organize the evaporator fins that are accidentally knocked apart during cleaning to ensure the ventilation and heat dissipation effect.

4. There is a cleaning brush set, which includes brushes specially designed for the grooves of the wind wheel, and an elbow brush for the gaps in the air outlet, which can ensure that there are no dead spots for cleaning.

5. For neutral air conditioning cleaning agents, choose a special cleaning agent with a neutral pH value to avoid using strong acids and alkalis to corrode the hydrophilic aluminum foil to protect the heat exchanger coating.

Refined disassembly: standard work on housing and filter

The first step of operation is always to be safe and unplug the power cord. The follow-up is not simply wiping, but "tearing down". Slowly lift the panel and take out the filters on both sides. Pay attention to the technique here. Most of the hooks need to be pulled upwards slightly to pull them out. For the outer casing, first wipe off the dust on the surface with a wet rag. For the plastic parts of the air outlet and the air guide plate, you can spray them with diluted neutral detergent and then wipe them to prevent long-term accumulation of dust and the formation of stubborn mildew spots. It’s not just a matter of flushing to deal with the filter. For filters with heavy dust accumulation, first use a vacuum cleaner to absorb dust on the surface, then soak and clean it in warm water below 50°C, and finally place it in a cool place to dry. Be sure to avoid exposure to the sun, otherwise the filter will deform and lose its filtering effect.

Core battle: deep cleaning of evaporator and wind wheel

This is a key step that determines the quality of cleaning. Open the cover inside the air conditioner, and we can see the evaporator wrapped in aluminum foil. As mentioned above, 80% of the dust will penetrate the filter and adhere to it. During operation, it is necessary to Spray the air conditioner cleaning agent evenly on the evaporator fins and let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes, so that the foam can fully dissolve the dirt. Here is a guide to avoid pits. Do not spray the cleaning agent directly on the side circuit boards and terminals, otherwise it will cause a short circuit. Then, turn on the air conditioning refrigeration mode, and use the generated condensed water to take away the dissolved sewage. For cross-flow fans, that is, rollers, since their grooves are very dense and easy to breed mold, you must use a steam cleaner or high-pressure water gun with a special brush for 360-degree physical scrubbing. Simply spraying chemicals cannot clean the internal attachments.

Maintenance of external units: ventilation of the condenser

What is often overlooked is the cleaning of the outdoor unit, but it has a direct impact on the cooling effect. The condenser of the outdoor unit is exposed to the outside and is extremely easy to be blocked by catkins and dust. When cleaning the outdoor unit, if it is installed in a convenient location, you can first use a long-bristled brush to clean it from top to bottom in the direction of the fins, and then rinse it with a tap water pipe. What needs to be remembered is: when flushing, avoid the junction box on the right side of the outdoor unit, and never flush the internal compressor directly to prevent electrical faults. If the location of the outdoor unit is dangerous, it is recommended to directly ask professionals to operate it. Do not take the risk yourself. Once the condenser is cleaned, its heat dissipation effect will be significantly improved, which can effectively reduce the load on the compressor and achieve the purpose of saving energy and electricity.

Heatsink Disinfection: The Invisible Bacteria Annihilation War

After washing the evaporator and wind wheel, be sure to re-disinfect the heat sink. The heat sink mentioned here generally refers to the gap deep in the evaporator. After physical cleaning, you can use antibacterial disinfectant and spray it evenly towards the heat sink with the machine turned off. Wait for 10 minutes after spraying to allow the disinfectant to fully penetrate and sterilize. This step can effectively kill Legionella pneumophila and mold spores remaining in the deep layers, and solve the problem of air conditioner odor from the root. For those models with air purification function, at this time, the corresponding purification module also needs to be disassembled for cleaning or replacement.

Effect comparison and acceptance: Visible cleanness and smellable freshness

After cleaning, reinstall all components, then turn on the air conditioner and adjust it to the lowest temperature. The acceptance at this time is not limited to visual aspects: the filter can be seen through the light, there is no black floc at the air outlet, and the air deflector remains clean. More importantly, there are changes in the somatosensory level: the wind speed has increased significantly, the wind noise has been reduced, and the wind blown out has a fresh water vapor feeling, instead of the sour smell before. Testing with a power meter shows that the operating current of the air conditioner after deep cleaning has decreased, which indicates that the cooling efficiency has become higher and the electricity bill will be more satisfactory. With such a complete set of deep cleaning procedures, it not only extends the service life of the air conditioner, but also builds an unbreakable line of defense for the respiratory health of the whole family. It is indeed necessary to ask a professional air conditioner maintenance technician to carry out comprehensive internal maintenance every two years or so to check the refrigerant pressure and circuit aging status, so that the air conditioner can truly achieve the "long-lasting" effect.